Chef of the Month Stephane Dupuis - Chowbaby
Chef of the month Stephane Dupuis
by Eleonora Boreyko
At the age of 13, Stephane Dupuis began developing a zest for food. Was the young man’s stomach endlessly rumbling? Most likely. His taste buds were certainly craving for something unique; the routine menu at home was no longer satisfying the rapidly growing man. Except for two uncles who had been baking fluffy pastries for many years, none in the Dupuis family was a cook. Being a baker did not appeal to Stephane, instead, he began his own experiments with cooking, using various ingredients. In his over exuberance, the ambitious man sprinkled an excessive amount of spices and herbs on many dishes. In other times, he made very tasty, but overbearing sauces.
The normally neat kitchen now looked as if chemistry was the lad’s favorite subject in school. He did not care about the mess; the primary goal was to make his demanding stomach content. Eventually, Stephane felt a need to better his cooking skills. Soon, one of the prominent cooking schools in Paris accepted the gifted, soon-to-be-cook.
After graduating, Stephane worked for a few restaurants, enhancing his culinary knowledge from well-known chefs. He gained enough experienced and was noticed by the long-established LA Rose De France. The eatery has been in business for thirty years, gaining a huge reputation amongst locals and foreigners.
Once hired, Stephane began creating new dishes. He particularly developed a penchant for “working” with meat. “From raw meat to gradually cooking it to perfection, the transformation process interests me the most,” beamed the usually shy cook. Stephane choose not to share some of his closely-guarded secrets - there is always a bit of mystery in cooking. After tasting a small morsel of entrecote, dissolved the minute it touched my tongue, I begged him to reveal the secret of its extreme tenderness. The cook was flattered. “I make tiny cuts to let the fatty juices penetrate the meat while cooking.” Another thing the young master spoke of was the sauce. He revealed the importance of it – used solely for enhancing the flavor of any dish, not to supersede it.
Throughout the years, a previous owner had established the family-like tradition - vegetables are cleaned and chopped by everyone in the kitchen. Produce is delivered every morning from the near by market. “The success of the restaurant also depends on the supreme freshness of each item; it is never frozen”, adds the master.
To my question what the clientele most frequently requests, the cook suggested several dishes. To whet an appetite, foie gras maison au Gauternes is his first choice. As an entrée, a smoked-to-perfection magret du canard (smoked duck) on a bed of green, and, my new favorite, luscious entrecôte with Roquefort sauce. Lastly, Stephane emphasized the always-desirable fondant au chocolate, sopping in cream anglaise.
The ascending success of the restaurant depends on various factors, but one thing is essential – a great cook is a necessity. Without a doubt, Stephane Dupuis is the answer “When coming to dine at our restaurant, the customers are happy the moment they step in the door,” note the staff. In his immaculate kitchen I took a few pictures, then we expressed our mutual gratitude for the interview. After the long evening, not the least bit tired Stephane changed from his uniform, hoped onto his motorcycle, and disappeared into the darkness of Paris.
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